Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 2012
91 Points International Wine Cellar
Bright medium red. Aromas of sweet raspberry, licorice, crushed stone and flowers. Dense, juicy and taut, with cool, vibrant berry and mineral flavors nicely framed by harmonious, ripe acidity. Finishes with a whiplash of flavor. The crop level was a modest 35 hectoliters per hectare due to millerandage. Elegant, rich and ripe village wine.
91 Points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
This 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin Village comes from the youngest vines that are still a respectable 45-years old, and sees around 25% new oak. It has an expressive bouquet with floral red and black fruit intermingled. The palate is medium-bodied with a succulent entry, a fine line of acidity and a solid finish that suggest this will drink well over the next 10 years.
Things are certainly changing at this domaine. When Arnaud took over I felt that the level of new oak was excessive, superfluous to requirements given the fruit bestowed by his family’s prodigious holdings. And he was refreshingly candid about this when we sat down in his offices to taste through his 2012s, where he told me that he is now dialing down the new oak in order to express the terroir. That said, there is still more new wood here that say, Armand Rousseau just round the corner, but tasting through these 2012s I would say that the wood is better assimilated than previous vintage and yes, the terroir does shine through. “The harvest began on 23 September,” Arnaud explained. “It lasted for about 9 days in Gevrey and then finishing off with the Bourgogne Rouge. We had a lot of millerandage. Everything was de-stemmed this year. We left the wine on its lees in barrel and might sulfur in two or three months. We’ll also transfer the wine in to stainless steel to marry everything together. But the end result is that we are about 40% down on average.”