Louis Roederer 'Collection 244' Brut Champagne

94 Points Jasper Morris

Even though 2019 follows the modern trend for warm, ripe vintages, harvesting was a couple of weeks later than in 2018, translating into superior phenolic presence. An aromatic bouquet of flowery-acacia hints at the higher Meunier. The structure is firmer than the 2018 base; the pear-like fruit is streaked with dazzling acidity. With a bit of coaxing, the ubiquitous tangerine aroma (citrus with an added saline condiment) emerges with time in the glass (as the perpetual reserve makes itself known). A faint umami savouriness haunts the finish, an aroma that appears to be the signature of early-release 2019-based champagnes. This edition will take a year or so in bottle to relax, eschew the phenolic bitterness of recent disgorgement, and build fruit. Statistics: 41% Chardonnay, 26% Meunier, and 33% Pinot Noir. 54% 2019 vintage (5% vinified in oak), 36% Perpetual Reserve (2012-2018), and 10% Reserve wines (2009-2018, aged in oak). Disgorged in spring 2023 with a dosage of 7g/l.